• Training

    My Training Log from Elbrus

    Here are some examples of what I’ve been doing the past few weeks while training for Elbrus. The following is only the cardio segment of each day so that you can get an idea of what type and amount of cardio I do while training for a big mountain. Note: ITM = NordicTrack Incline Treadmill (-6% – +40% inclination) July 30 ITM: [123′ – mostly 6.0 mph] 2.34 mi – 24:00 – 1% – (5.85 ave.) – [10:15 pace] – 123.552′ – (309/5.15 vert per hour/minute) Afternoon: Ski Erg: L5 – 06:00 – 983 meters – 6.108 mph – 9:49 min/mi – 2.731 meters/second July 31 Freestrider: 24:00 – L10…

  • Exercise

    Core Week – Standing Side Abs with Barbell

    You need to work your obliques, including the abs on the side. Bending side to side is a pretty good way to train your core and improve strength that applies to mountaineering, like picking up your really heavy pack, lifting a sled over a crevasse lip, digging out a tent platform. The instructions for this one are pretty simple. In my case I like to use a barbell for the instability, but you could use something more compact and stable, like a kettlebell, dumbbell or weight plate. I grab the middle from a mid-thigh position off a rack, straighten my back and shoulders for good posture, then dip the bar…

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  • Exercise

    Core Week – Standing Band Ab Curls

    The Standing Band Ab Curl is a pretty cool exercise for your core that works a lot harder than you would think. Gravity really doesn’t give you a boost, since you’d be pulling against the resistance from above and/or to the rear. Typically you’d use a little over-the-shoulder yoke hooked to a cable and a pulley to a weight stack, like in a lat tower. I prefer to use bands crossed over my chest. Pretty cheap and simple, and you can adjust the resistance by stepping forward or back as needed. Lean into the bands and use your core to curl forward into a “C” shape, pulling your chest toward…

  • Exercise

    Core Week – Inverted Situp

    So you want a set of six-pack abs? Or at least a strong core, which is probably more meaningful for ice climbing and hauling around an 85 lb pack while dragging a 45 lb sled (standard fare in Alaska). I really like this exercise – the inverted situp. I do it a few different ways, but one of the easiest for me is on the Glute Ham Raise bench. If you go to a gym, there is probably some type of bench designed for inverted situps, or something you could improvise. At home you might be able to figure out how to use a deck or staircase, but don’t blame…

  • Exercise

    Core Week – Rotation Planks

    Very simple and very effective – works your entire core, including your abs and obliques and the QL. I like to use something to take the stress off my wrists when I do planks. In the video below I’m using the Perfect Pushup handles to allow my wrists to stay in a neutral position and rotate a bit. I type and mouse for a living so that’s really important to me. Just get down into a plank position with your feet wide and hands close, then put a hand up in the air above you, rotating into place off the balls of your feet, using your hips and shoulders to…

  • Exercise

    Core Week – Roman Chair Crunches

    First up in this week of core movements is the Roman Chair Crunch. I have a Back Hyperextension/Roman Chair combination bench. Hop up to sit on the large front pads with the large fleshy part of your hamstrings, and hook your ankles under the round foot pads. Lean back carefully. If you’ve never done this before, or your abs are particularly weak, you should be very careful. You don’t need to go all the way back or down, just to level or parallel to the floor is fine. From there do a crunching motion. Bring your chest up toward your knees and lower back. With a good range of motion…