• Training

    Training Logs – October Part One

    While writing my book, recently released on Kindle Elbrus, My Waterloo (Seven Summits Quest) I adjusted my program slightly to emphasize weights and cut down on cardio quite a bit. This is the first half of October. Training Logs for early October Saturday October 13 Hike: 5.8 miles up Keystone Gulch 600′ elevation Thursday October 11 I: 3:00 Rest Day Wednesday October 10 I: 2:00 High Box Squat: 25 @ BW; 155; 205; 235; 235 lb Incline Bench Press: 2 x 25 @ 45 lb Low Row: 2 x 25 @ 45 lb ITM: 787′ .40 mi – 24:06 – 40% – (0.996 ave.) – [60:15 pace] – 844.8′ – (2103/35.05 vert…

  • Training

    Training After Elbrus

    For the past few weeks after my attempt on Elbrus, a volcano in Russia and one of the Seven Summits, I have been working to regain my strength and fitness, and I have to admit, this is probably the fastest I’ve ever gotten back into the groove for training after an expedition. In addition to doing some heavier weights in this training cycle, I’ve also done some family hikes and road bike rides with my 11 year old since returning from Elbrus. It’s fall here in Utah right now, and the colors are just awesome, with a lot of reds this year. I’m looking forward to going out to Colorado…

  • Training

    My Training Log from Elbrus

    Here are some examples of what I’ve been doing the past few weeks while training for Elbrus. The following is only the cardio segment of each day so that you can get an idea of what type and amount of cardio I do while training for a big mountain. Note: ITM = NordicTrack Incline Treadmill (-6% – +40% inclination) July 30 ITM: [123′ – mostly 6.0 mph] 2.34 mi – 24:00 – 1% – (5.85 ave.) – [10:15 pace] – 123.552′ – (309/5.15 vert per hour/minute) Afternoon: Ski Erg: L5 – 06:00 – 983 meters – 6.108 mph – 9:49 min/mi – 2.731 meters/second July 31 Freestrider: 24:00 – L10…

  • Exercise

    Core Week – Standing Side Abs with Barbell

    You need to work your obliques, including the abs on the side. Bending side to side is a pretty good way to train your core and improve strength that applies to mountaineering, like picking up your really heavy pack, lifting a sled over a crevasse lip, digging out a tent platform. The instructions for this one are pretty simple. In my case I like to use a barbell for the instability, but you could use something more compact and stable, like a kettlebell, dumbbell or weight plate. I grab the middle from a mid-thigh position off a rack, straighten my back and shoulders for good posture, then dip the bar…

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  • Exercise

    Core Week – Standing Band Ab Curls

    The Standing Band Ab Curl is a pretty cool exercise for your core that works a lot harder than you would think. Gravity really doesn’t give you a boost, since you’d be pulling against the resistance from above and/or to the rear. Typically you’d use a little over-the-shoulder yoke hooked to a cable and a pulley to a weight stack, like in a lat tower. I prefer to use bands crossed over my chest. Pretty cheap and simple, and you can adjust the resistance by stepping forward or back as needed. Lean into the bands and use your core to curl forward into a “C” shape, pulling your chest toward…

  • Exercise

    Core Week – Inverted Situp

    So you want a set of six-pack abs? Or at least a strong core, which is probably more meaningful for ice climbing and hauling around an 85 lb pack while dragging a 45 lb sled (standard fare in Alaska). I really like this exercise – the inverted situp. I do it a few different ways, but one of the easiest for me is on the Glute Ham Raise bench. If you go to a gym, there is probably some type of bench designed for inverted situps, or something you could improvise. At home you might be able to figure out how to use a deck or staircase, but don’t blame…