Seven Summits Body – Fitness and Training

Category: Training

My own training programs or reports

Training Logs – October Part One

While writing my book, recently released on Kindle Elbrus, My Waterloo (Seven Summits Quest) I adjusted my program slightly to emphasize weights and cut down on cardio quite a bit. This is the first half of October.

Training Logs for early October

Saturday October 13
Hike: 5.8 miles up Keystone Gulch 600′ elevation

Thursday October 11
I: 3:00
Rest Day

Wednesday October 10
I: 2:00
High Box Squat: 25 @ BW; 155; 205; 235; 235 lb
Incline Bench Press: 2 x 25 @ 45 lb
Low Row: 2 x 25 @ 45 lb
ITM: 787′
.40 mi – 24:06 – 40% – (0.996 ave.) – [60:15 pace] – 844.8′ – (2103/35.05 vert per hour/minute)

Running to Camp Muir on Rainier in 2010 when I first began using a training log

Tuesday October 9
I: 2:30
FS: L8 – 18:00 – 2577′
GHR-Poles: 25
Superset: 5 x {
Parallel Box Squat: 5 @ 155 -red
Shoulder Curl-Press: 10 @ bar+10lb
}
Standing Pullup Pulse: 100
Standing Chinup Pulse: 50
ITM: -421′
2.00 mi – 25:20 – -4% – (4.737 ave.) – [12:40 pace] – -422.4′ – (-1000/-16.67 vert per hour/minute)

Monday October 8
I: 2:)0
Sumo Good Morning: 25 @ 45 lb
Hyper/RC: 25
Superset: 4 x {
Medium Box Squat: 5 @ 155 lb – red
SLDL: 5 @ 155 lb
Machine Lat Pulldown: 25 @ L6
DB Side Shoulder: 25 @ 7.5 lb ea
}
ITM: 636′
.815 mi – 25:00 – 15% – (1.956 ave.) – [30:40 pace] – 645.48′ – (1549/25.82 vert per hour/minute)

In my Training Logs I list family hikes without too many details

Sunday October 7
I: 2:30
FS: L8 – 12:00 – 1872′
18″ box – side step: 25 ea w/poles
GHR-Poles: 25
High Box Squat: 25 @ 65/115/155/205 lb
Incline Bench Press: 3 x 25 @ 45 lb
Inverted Row: 5
Hopping Pullup from 12″ box: 100
Blast Strap inverted fly: 2 x 10
Straight Arm Rope Pressdown: 10 @ L3
1-Arm Hopping Pullup from 12″ box: 50 ea.

Saturday October 6
I: 3:00
FS: L8 – 24:49 – 4000′
ITM: 40% – 24:12 – .511 mi – 1000′
.511 mi – 24:12 – 40% – (1.267 ave.) – [47:21 pace] – 1079.232′ – (2676/44.6 vert per hour/minute)

Jacobs Ladder is JL: in my Training Log abbreviations

Friday October 5
I: 2:30
Bench Press pin 9: 10 @ 45/95; 2 x 10 @ 145 lb
Vertical Row: 4 x 10 @ 90 lb
Sumo Hopping Pullups: 4 x 25 (no box)
Ski-Erg: L5 – 9:00 – 620m
DB Shoulder side/front/rear: 25 @ 10 lb ea.
ITM: 5% – 30:00 – 2.049 – 540′
2.049 mi – 30:00 – 5% – (4.098 ave.) – [14:38 pace] – 540.936′ – (1082/18.03 vert per hour/minute)

Thursday October 4
I: 3:00
FS: L8 – 24:00 – 3455′
GHR-Poles: 16
18″ box rear step w/poles: 16 ea
Parallel Box Squat: 5 @ 65; 5 @ 115 -folded red ; 5 x 5 @ 115 -red

Preparing for a half marathon I record my daily mileage in my training logs

Wednesday October 3
I: 3:00
Body said “Rest Day”

Tuesday October 2
I: 3:00
Safetybar Top Partial Squat pin 17: 10 @ 65; 25 @ 155; 4 x 25 @ 245 lb
Safetybar Standing Calf Raise: 25 @ 155 lb
ITM: 3% – 49:00 – 3.363 – 532′
3.363 mi – 49:00 – 3% – (4.118 ave.) – [14:34 pace] – 532.6992′ – (652/10.87 vert per hour/minute)

Monday October 1
I: 2:30
Hopping Dip: 3 x 100
Hopping Pullup/Chinup: 2 x 100 @ 6″ box; 100 @ 12″ box
DB Shoulder Side: 3 x 25
ITM: 20% – 24:00 – .54 mi – 559′
.54 mi – 24:00 – 20% – (1.35 ave.) – [44:27 pace] – 570.24′ – (1426/23.76 vert per hour/minute)

FS: L8 – 24:00 – 3091′

12% bodyfat rear view

Sunday September 30
I: 2:30
Safetybar Standing Calf Raise: 25 @ bw; 16 @ 65; 3 x 16 @ 95 lb
Safetybar Box Squat: 10 @ bw/65 lb; 3 x 10 @ 95 lb
ITM: 4% – 25:05 – 1.64 mi – 344′
1.64 mi – 25:05 – 4% – (3.923 ave.) – [15:18 pace] – 346.368′ – (829/13.81 vert per hour/minute)

October 16, 2012
Training After Elbrus

For the past few weeks after my attempt on Elbrus, a volcano in Russia and one of the Seven Summits, I have been working to regain my strength and fitness, and I have to admit, this is probably the fastest I’ve ever gotten back into the groove for training after an expedition.

Taking the kids up the canyon to view the Fall colors

In addition to doing some heavier weights in this training cycle, I’ve also done some family hikes and road bike rides with my 11 year old since returning from Elbrus. It’s fall here in Utah right now, and the colors are just awesome, with a lot of reds this year. I’m looking forward to going out to Colorado during the next school holiday, and wanting to run the Grizzly Ridge to Torrey’s and maybe Buffalo.

Post Elbrus Training Stats from my private Blog

Saturday September 29
ITM: [1961′]
1.00 mi – 50:00 – 40% – (1.2 ave.) – [50:000 pace] – 2112′ – (2534/42.24 vert per hour/minute)
Stairmaster: 48:00 – 65 s/m – 2080.00 ft. – 0.44 mi.
ITM: [-250′]
2.37 mi – 24:00 – -2% – (5.925 ave.) – [10:08 pace] – -250.272′ – (-626/-10.43 vert per hour/minute)
Bike Ride: 15.3 mi.

Friday September 28
I: 3:00
Freestrider: L8 – 14:30 – 2000′
GHR: 17 (concentrated no poles)
Safetybar Sumo Partial Goodmorning: 25 @ 65 lb
Safetybar Sumo High Box Squat: 25 @ bw / 65 / 115 / 165 / 195 / 215 !!!
Band Sissy Squat: 25 @ green
Leg Extension: 25 ea @ 30 lb

Thursday September 27
I: 2:30
Ski-Erg: L5 – 9:00 – 1296 meters – 5.369 mph – 11:11 min/mi – 2.4 meters/second
Superset: 2 x {
Hopping Dip: 100
Hopping Pullup: 100
Hyper/RC: 25
}
Superset: {
Bench Press: 5 @ 135 -purple; 5 x 5 @ 160 -purple
Horizontal Row: 5 @ 90 lb; 5 x 5 @ 125 lb
}
Superset: 3 x {
Suprabar Shoulder Curl/Press: 10 @ bar+ 20 lb
Inverted Row: 10
Neutral Grip Chinup: 5 singles from standing
}
ITM: [1182′]
4.482 mi – 62:00 – 5% – (4.337 ave.) – [13:50 pace] – 1183.248′ – (1145/19.08 vert per hour/minute)

Wednesday September 26
I: 2:30
Freestrider: L8 – 7:06 – 1000′
GHR-Poles: 5 x 10 @ bw
Superset: 5 x {
Safetybar Parallel Box Squat: 6 @ 65/115 lb; 3 x 6 @ 135 lb
DB Incline Chest Press: 10 @ 25 lb ea
}
Sumo SLDL: 5 x 5 @ 155 lb
ITM: [247′]
2.35 mi – 30:00 – 2% – (4.7 ave.) – [12:46 pace] – 248.16′ – (496/8.27 vert per hour/minute)
Stairmaster: 25:00 – 60 s/m – 1000.00 ft. – 0.21 mi.

Tuesday September 25
I: 2:30
Ski-Erg: L5 – 9:00 – 1263 meters – 5.232 mph – 11:28 min/mi – 2.339 meters/second
Hopping Dip/Pullup: 100 ea
DB Shoulder (side/front/rear): 25 ea @ 5 lb ea
Bench Press: 25 @ 45 lb
Horizontal Row: 25 @ 90 lb
Seated Goodmorning (curl/oblique): 25 @ bw
Safetybar Goodmorning: 5 @ 65 lb
Trapbar Deadlift: 5 @ 145 lb
Stairmaster: 10:00 – 60 s/m – 400.00 ft. – 0.09 mi.

Monday September 24
Ski-Erg: L5 – 9:00 – 1257 meters – 5.207 mph – 11:31 min/mi – 2.328 meters/second
Hyper/RC: 25 ea
DB Shoulder (side/front/rear) 25 ea @ 5 lb ea
Leg Extension: 25 ea @ 20 lb
Hunchbacks: 25
Safetybar High Box Squat: 25 @ 65/115/165/185 lb
Safetybar Standing Calf: 25 @ 65 lb
ITM: [2513′]
1.28 mi – 49:09 – 40% – (1.563 ave.) – [38:24 pace] – 2703.36′ – (3300/55 vert per hour/minute)

Sunday September 23
I: 2:30
Superset: 2 x {
Hyper: 25
Roman Chair: 25
Hopping Pullup: 100
Hopping Dip: 100
Ski Erg: 1:30 – L5 – 247/232 M
}
Pulse Pushup: 40
DB Lateral Shoulder: 2 x 25 @ 5 lb ea
Bench Press: 2 x 25 @ 45 lb
Inverted Row Scapular Contraction: 25
ITM: [595′]
.58 mi – 25:20 – 20% – (1.374 ave.) – [43:41 pace] – 612.48′ – (1451/24.18 vert per hour/minute)

Freestrider: L8 – 23:40 – 4000′

Saturday September 22
I: 2:30
Hopping Chinup/Pullup: 2 x 100
Hopping Dip: 2 x 100
Machine Ab Curl: 50 @ L6; 25 @ L4
Superset: 2 x {
Inverted Row: 10
Elevated Pushup: 10
}
Bike Ride: 7.6 mi (stats?)

Friday September 21
Zercher Safetybar High Box Squat: 10 @ 65 lb
Safetybar High Box Squat: 2 x 10 @ 155 lb; 2 x 10 @ 205 lb; 5 @ 225 lb (pulled oblique)
Bailed on rest of workout today

Thursday September 20
I: 2:30
Superset: 5 x {
Bench Press: 5 @ 135 lb -purple
Suprabar Horizontal Row: 5 @ 115 lb
Suprabar Curl/Press: 5 @ bar+30 lb
Wrist Roller: 5 lb (both ways)
}
Superset: 3 x {
Inverted Row: 10
Incline Press: 10 @ 25 lb ea
Facepull: 10 @ L2/L3
}
Superset: 3 x {
Assisted Pullup: 10 @ blue (knees)
Tricep Rope: 10 @ L3
}
ITM: [-227′]
2.16 mi – 24:00 – -2% – (5.4 ave.) – [11:07 pace] – -228.096′ – (-570/-9.5 vert per hour/minute)

Wednesday September 19
I: 2:30
Blaststrap Sissy Squat: 10
Superset: 5 x {
Straightleg Deadlift: 5 @ 135 lb
Safetybar Full Squat: 5 @ 65 lb
}
Freestrider: L6 – 24:00 – 3445′

Tuesday September 18
Superset: 8 total sets {
Bench Press: 25 @ 45 lb; 5 @ 135 -reds; 2 @ 185 -purples; 5 x 3 @ 185 -purples/reds
Suprabar Horizontal Row: 8 x 10 @ 95 lb
}
Superset: 2 x {
Suprabar Curl/Press: 10 @ bar+20 lb
Assisted Pullup: 25 @ blue
}
Incline DB Press: 25 @ 22.5 lb ea
ITM: [2400′]
1.22 mi – 52:04 – 40% – (1.406 ave.) – [42:41 pace] – 2576.64′ – (2969/49.49 vert per hour/minute)

Monday September 17
Freestrider: L10 – 7:29 – 1000′
GHR-Poles: 25
Band Goodmorning: 2 x 25 @ purple band
Parallel Box Squat: 10 @ bw/65; 2 x 10 @ 85 lb
Trapbar Deadlift: 5 @ 145/195; 3 x 10 @ 225 lb
ITM: [-168′]
1.6 mi – 24:00 – -2% – (4 ave.) – [15:000 pace] – -168.96′ – (-422/-7.04 vert per hour/minute)

Sunday September 16
Freestrider: L8 – 12:00 – 1511′
KB Swings – not recorded
GHR-Poles: 5 x 10
Superset 2 x {
Machine Abs: 25 @ L6
Hanging Knee-up: 10
Incline DB Chest Press: 25 @ 20 lb ea.
Rear Delt Fly: 15 @ 5 lb ea
}
ITM: [2410′]
1.23 mi – 54:00 – 40% – (1.367 ave.) – [43:54 pace] – 2597.76′ – (2886/48.11 vert per hour/minute)

Saturday September 15
I: 3:30
Freestrider: L6 – 8:00 – 1106′
KB Swings 25 ea multiple angles
GHR-Poles 5 x 10
Trapbar Deadlift: 5 x 10 @ 145 lb
Safetybar Seated Goodmorning: 12 @ 65
High Box Squat: 5 @ 65/155 lb; 5 x 5 @ 205 lb
Assisted Pullup: 25 @ Blue Band
Seated Calf Raise: 25 @ 90 lb

Friday September 14
Hyper/RC: 25
Hanging Knee-up: 2 x 12
Machine Ab Curl: 2 x 25 @ L10
Superset: 2 x {
Bench Press: 25 @ 45 lb
Seated Suprabar Shoulder Curl/Press: 2 @ bar
Rope Row: 25 @ L4
}
Assisted Pullup: 4 x 12 @ Blue Band (Standing)
Strap Tricep Press: 10 @ L4
Supported Tricep Dip: 10 @ bw -legs
Inverted Row: 10
ITM: [632′]
.81 mi – 25:00 – 15% – (1.944 ave.) – [30:52 pace] – 641.52′ – (1540/25.66 vert per hour/minute)

Thursday September 13
I: 2:00
Hyper/RC: 25
Blast Strap Sissy Squat: 25
Safetybar High Box Squat: 25 @ 65 lb; 17 @ 115 lb; 12 @ 155 lb; 5 x 10 @ 185 lb
Side Abs: 25 ea @ 5 lb (handle)
Single leg high box: 25 ea @ bw
Twisting Abs: 25 @ bw
ITM: [-308′]
1.46 mi – 25:00 – -4% – (3.504 ave.) – [17:07 pace] – -308.352′ – (-740/-12.33 vert per hour/minute)

September 30, 2012
My Training Log from Elbrus

Here are some examples of what I’ve been doing the past few weeks while training for Elbrus. The following is only the cardio segment of each day so that you can get an idea of what type and amount of cardio I do while training for a big mountain.

Treadmill Running at 5 AM while the family sleeps

Note: ITM = NordicTrack Incline Treadmill (-6% – +40% inclination)

July 30
ITM: [123′ – mostly 6.0 mph]
2.34 mi – 24:00 – 1% – (5.85 ave.) – [10:15 pace] – 123.552′ – (309/5.15 vert per hour/minute)

Afternoon:
Ski Erg:
L5 – 06:00 – 983 meters – 6.108 mph – 9:49 min/mi – 2.731 meters/second

July 31
Freestrider: 24:00 – L10 – 3624′

ITM: [423′]
2.01 mi – 24:00 – 4% – (5.025 ave.) – [11:56 pace] – 424.512′ – (1061/17.69 vert per hour/minute)

August 1
ITM: [1542′]
1.12 mi – 40:00 – 27% – (1.68 ave.) – [35:43 pace] – 1596.672′ – (2395/39.92 vert per hour/minute)

Stairmaster: 40:00 – 75 spm – 2000′

ITM: [63′]
1.21 mi – 14:00 – 1% – (5.186 ave.) – [11:34 pace] – 63.888′ – (274/4.56 vert per hour/minute)

Afternoon:
Ski Erg: L5 – 15:00 – 2420 meters – 6.015 mph – 9:59 min/mi – 2.689 meters/second

August 2
Trail Run: Big Baldy Traverse
4400′ (up and down) – 3:51 – 11.0 miles

August 3
ITM: [876′]
(1.81 mi – 46:00 – 5-10%)

August 4
ITM: [-685′]
(-2% – 74:37 – 6.50 mi – long intervals 5.0/6.0/6.5 mph +/- 20:00 ea)

August 5
Bike Ride: Keystone to Montezuma and back (Colorado)
1300′ (up and down) – 1:49 – 14.3 mi

Mountain Trail Run Ascent and Descent

August 7
ITM: [-749′]
7.10 mi – 72:30 – -2% – (5.876 ave.) – [10:13 pace] – -749.76′ – (-620/-10.34 vert per hour/minute)

August 8
I: 2:00
Starimaster: 70:00 – 75 spm – 3500′

Afternoon:
Ski-Erg: L5 – 15:00 – 2263 meters – 5.625 mph – 10:40 min/mi – 2.514 meters/second
(circuit with abs, lats, pecs)

August 9
ITM: [577′]
5.50 mi – 66:15 – 2% – (4.981 ave.) – [12:03 pace] – 580.8′ – (526/8.77 vert per hour/minute)
really beat – unrecovered – legs empty but still managed some 1/4 mi. intervals of 7.0 and up

August 10
ITM: [5696′]
4.14 mi – 90:00 – 27% – (2.76 ave.) – [21:44 pace] – 5901.984′ – (3935/65.58 vert per hour/minute)

August 11
ITM: [-738′]
7.00 mi – 69:22 – -2% – (6.055 ave.) – [9:55 pace] – -739.2′ – (-639/-10.66 vert per hour/minute)

August 12
Stairmaster:
10:00 – 85 s/m – 566.67 ft. – 0.12 mi.
10:00 – 90 s/m – 600.00 ft. – 0.13 mi.
4:00 – 95 s/m – 253.33 ft. – 0.05 mi.
= 1420′

Jacob’s Ladder:
5:00 – 309′

Jacob’s Ladder Trainer

August 13
Stairmaster:
46:00 – 100 s/m – 3066.67 ft. – 0.65 mi.
ITM: [3435′]
2.50 mi – 50:00 – 27% – (3 ave.) – [20:000 pace] – 3564′ – (4277/71.28 vert per hour/minute)
6501.67/6630.67′
Roughly Equal to Classic in 96:00

August 14
ITM: [-453′]
4.31 mi – 50:06 – -2% – (5.162 ave.) – [11:37 pace] – -455.136′ – (-545/-9.08 vert per hour/minute)

Freestrider: L8 – 44:00 – 7316′

August 15
ITM: [1244′]
.82 mi – 24:00 – 30% – (2.05 ave.) – [29:16 pace] – 1298.88′ – (3247/54.12 vert per hour/minute)

Stairmaster: 12:00 – 110 s/m – 880.00 ft. – 0.19 mi.

ITM: [1296′]
.86 mi – 24:00 – 30% – (2.15 ave.) – [27:54 pace] – 1362.24′ – (3406/56.76 vert per hour/minute)

Stairmaster: 6:00 – 120 s/m – 480.00 ft. – 0.10 mi.

3900’/4020 in 66:00

August 16
ITM: [161′]
1.54 mi – 26:06 – 2% – (3.54 ave.) – [16:57 pace] – 162.624′ – (374/6.23 vert per hour/minute)

August 17
Trail Run: ascent of Mount Olympus in Salt Lake City
4500′ (up and down) – 3:39 – 6.3 miles

Stairmaster Stepmill Training

August 19
ITM: [1000′]
.51 mi – 24:43 – 40% – (1.238 ave.) – [48:28 pace] – 1077.12′ – (2615/43.58 vert per hour/minute)

Jacob’s Ladder: 12:00 – 747′
Freestrider: 23:23 – L6 – 4000′ (FAST!)

August 20
ITM: [3600′]
1.84 mi – 63:25 – 40% – (1.741 ave.) – [34:28 pace] – 3886.08′ – (3677/61.28 vert per hour/minute)

Stairmaster: 34:00 – 80 s/m – 1813.33 ft. – 0.39 mi.

Afternoon:
Trail Run: Bonneville Shoreline Trail, Utah County
1200′ (up and down) – 1:47 – 8.1 mi

August 21
ITM: [-527′]
5.00 mi – 58:54 – -2% – (5.093 ave.) – [11:47 pace] – -528′ – (-538/-8.96 vert per hour/minute)

August 22
ITM: [2725′]
1.80 mi – 72:02 – 30% – (1.499 ave.) – [40:01 pace] – 2851.2′ – (2375/39.58 vert per hour/minute)

August 25
Bicycling: Frisco to Vail Pass and return
1900′ (up and down) – 23.3 mi – 2:57

August 27
ITM: [10,700′]
7.78 mi – 162:04 – 27% – (2.88 ave.) – [20:50 pace] – 11091.168′ – (4106/68.44 vert per hour/minute)

August 28
Freestrider: L6 – 13:00 – 1868′

August 29
Stairmaster: 45:00 – 75 s/m – 2250.00 ft. – 0.48 mi.

August 26, 2012
Elbrus Race 2012 Qualifier Training Considerations

Elbrus – 18,510 ft (5,642 m) is a volcano in the Caucasus Mountains of Russia. It’s one of the Seven Summits, and also one of the Volcanic Seven Summits. It is generally considered the highest peak in Europe, and is included on both the Bass and Messner Lists.

In 2010 I trained to enter in the Elbrus Race 2010, and managed to successfully complete the Qualifier, despite contracting dysentery from contaminated water. It was an awesome, life changing experience, and I look back on it fondly. I wanted very badly to return last year, but because of some political unrest in the area, there was no Elbrus Race 2011.

Elbrus Race 2010 acclimatization day at top of Tram

It has been recently announced they will be running Elbrus Race 2012, with political stability and increased tourism to the area. I will talk about some of those issues, including obtaining the proper visas and logistical support in the vicinity of Elbrus, in one of my other blogs. My intent here is to focus on training for the 2012 edition.

There are three events in the Elbrus Race.

First is the Qualifier. It begins at the Barrels Huts at approximately 12,300 ft (3700 meters) and ends at Pastukhov’s Rocks at about 15,750′ (4800 meters). From the Elbrus Race website:

Qualification route goes from refuge Barrels (3708m) till the Pastuhkov Rock top ~4800 m)
Start point is on small square between 2 row of Barrales.
Terrain at September — snow + ice destoried[sic] with sun — safe to walk as the ice surface keep strong grip if one would fell down
Length of the route ~3980 meter
Vertical drop of the route ~1090 m

The participants who have passed the qualification standards will be admitted for the Elbrus Race. The standard will be calculated from the starting time until reaching the Finish line, set on the top of Pastukhov’s Rocks. The participants are considered passed if they reached the section line independently less than 2 hours of ascent and descended down to the starting place not later than at 16.00.

Me in blue #24 at start of the 2010 Qualifier

Explaining these stats, you need to climb 3576′ over the course of 13,058′ or 2.47 miles, in less than 2 hours. Even with my dysentery, which required me to somewhat waddle up while squeezing it in so to speak, I made it in 1:41, a relatively comfortable margin. That’s equivalent to a 40:53 pace, or 1.47 mph with an average ascent rate of 35 feet/minute. The fastest time in 2010 was 1:04 for a 25:55 pace, or 2.31 mph and a 56 feet/minute ascent rate.

Elbrus Race 2010 Training Objectives

Last time, I trained to merely qualify, with a time around 1:45. I did end up doing about that too. The course on Elbrus is roughly averaged to 27% grade. For my vertical training I walked at 1.5 mph at 28% grade on an Incline Treadmill for 2 hours, very close to the course stats. I also did lots of Stairmaster Stepmill work. The vertical ascent rate of 35 feet/minute is roughly equal to a 53 step/minute rate on the Stairmaster. I also used an elliptical trainer with a very steep ascent angle on the foot pads, and the guage monitors vertical step distance, but it’s not body-weight training by any means, so I was able to easily do 9,000′ in 60 minutes. Good workout, and great for the glutes and quads, but not specific enough.

Back and Biceps during Elbrus Race 2010 Training

At the time, for general physical conditioning I ran about 2 miles every other day. For weights I did box squats and straight leg deads, calf raises and lat pulldowns and bench presses. Not a lot of upper body, primarily low weight/high volume work to prepare for poling up the slope. For core work I was doing reverse hypers, reverse curls, and Roman Chair exercises. I did a little messing around and experimenting with Mountain Climbers and various planks, but the above was my primary workout.

While training for Elbrus over the course of four months I went from 195 to 175 pounds, and my resting heart rate dropped from the mid-50’s to the mid-40’s. I did splits 3-4 days a week (splits is a bodybuilding term for two workouts a day, usually a different body part or different training goal like cardio vs. weights), and a typical workout was 3 hours long. My work and home life suffered a bit (or more) because of this heavy of a training load. I did make great progress though.

running up Rainier on Muir Snowfield

I did very little training outside, with a few tests on Quandary, and one on Rainier to test my shoes and crampons out. I hadn’t really tested my outdoor clothing system out yet, and relied on the advice of a good friend from Italy, Luca Colli, who had come in 5th in the Elbrus Race 2009 for shoes, clothing, and gear.

Now it’s 2012, and a lot of water under the bridge later, I have some interesting advantages over training in 2010. I’ve sustained a weight between 180 and 185 since I recovered from the 2010 race. I have run a lot, including weeks with more than 40 miles. I’ve entered a handful of running races, and have a better feel for tapering and pre-race nutrition. I can sustain a 55 feet/minute ascent rate on the Stepmill. I haven’t had easy access to an Incline Treadmill, so I can’t say how that will go, but in small steep hills with a gradient over 20% I’ve been able to average up to 3.0 mph (20:00 pace) in short bursts.

I’m not saying I can “win” the Qualifier, but I do feel like I’m in a lot better position for 2012 than I was in 2010. In the next episode I’ll explore how I am training now, with some ideas of my programs and goals. I’ll also explore the stats from the main Elbrus Race – The Classic.

To view my reports from the 2010 event check out my old blog on [ Blogspot ]

To view some of my current outdoor training reports check out my current Seven Summits Quest [ Blog ]

I’ll do my indoor and accessory training here on this [ Blog ]

July 7, 2012
Training Hike – Half Dome via Cables Route

Sometimes a really good long (16 mile) hike in mountainous terrain with some good elevation gain and loss (5,600′) is excellent training for mountaineering. I wore my Polar RS800CX and got the data transferred to Google Earth, and generated this Elevation Profile:

Half Dome Cables Route Training Hike – Ascent Elevation Profile

I had a friend from California with to help me with logistics (permits, lodging, and transportation) and we hiked together. I’m normally alone in my pursuits, so it was a welcome change. We talked about maybe doing Rainier together sometime. It took 4:15 up, and we hung out on top for a while to enjoy the views, then 3:15 down, actually running off and on about half of the last mile. That felt good after 15 miles of hiking. This is excellent training for the Aspen Backcountry Marathon I’ll be doing in August.

Google Earth 3D Image of Training Hike on Half Dome

I’ve never been to Yosemite before, and it’s one of the best training/testing areas in the world for serious climbers, including Alpinists. Afterward, we spent a while at Glacier Point looking over the trail we’d just hiked, most of it visible, and the awesome exposed face. I fantasized about going back next year with one of my ropegun friends. Hmmmm …

If you want to read more, here’s a link to the article on my other blog: [ Half Dome Ascent via Cables Route ]

I’d love to hear anyone’s opinion of excellent training hikes you’ve done. If you have a blog article about it, put a link on my [ Facebook Page ] for all to share.

June 16, 2012
Grays Peak Training Hike

Drove to the Stevens Gulch road, then up to the Grizzly Gulch junction and parked. Hiked about 2 miles to the trailhead, then about a mile up the trail. I was wearing old hiking boots I haven’t worn in two years, but my feet seemed to have changed shape in the meanwhile (probably from all the running) and they were cutting into my tendons above my toes. I ended up removing the insole to allow for more room, which helped a bit, but let me slide around some. I was planning on doing both summits (Grays and Torreys) but decided to just call it a good training hike and return to the car. I am training for the Aspen Backountry Marathon, and can’t afford to take a week off while my tendons heal.

On the way back to the car it started snowing, in spite of the beautiful sky just minutes before (see pics) and I-70 was really messy. Over the divide into Dillon it was still snowing. Sometimes you get get weather on one side of the Divide or the other. On my hike I’d gone from 10,300′ to 11,900′ in 1:09, so not bad overall – maintained about 3.0 mph average.

[picasa gallery]

May 11, 2012